Launched in 1968, Estée by Estée Lauder marked a pivotal moment in the brand’s fragrance legacy—a bold and highly anticipated release that arrived a full seventeen years after the introduction of Youth-Dew. This long interval between fragrance launches wasn’t due to hesitation, but rather a testament to Estée Lauder’s insistence on perfection. She would not attach her name to anything that didn't meet her exacting standards. “You don't think I'd put my name on something that doesn't smell good?” she famously quipped. Estée was not just another perfume—it was the perfume, a personal expression of the woman behind the global cosmetics empire. The debut reflected Lauder’s belief in its quality, sophistication, and uniqueness, and its introduction was nothing short of a beauty industry event.
What set Estée apart even further was its “super” iteration: Estée’s Super Perfume and Estée’s Super Cologne. The term "super" here wasn’t marketing fluff—it was a deliberate, strategic statement. In English, “super” is derived from Latin, meaning "above," "beyond," or "excellent." The name evoked power, luxury, endurance, and elevation—qualities not typically associated with feminine fragrances in the 1960s. The choice to add “Super” not only imbued the perfume with an aura of advanced performance, but aligned it with the era’s fascination with modernity, progress, and innovation—think of the “Super” of the Space Age, Superpowers, and even Superman. This was a perfume designed to go beyond, a “super fragrance,” as Estée herself described it, engineered to last at least 24 hours—reportedly three times longer than most perfumes of the time, thanks to a concentration of essential oils three times higher than standard.
The perfume was launched at the height of the late 1960s, an era of profound social transformation, marked by the rise of second-wave feminism, cultural liberation, and the tail end of the Mod movement. Women were asserting themselves in both the boardroom and on the street, and fashion was shifting from structured elegance to freer, expressive styles—miniskirts, tunics, bold prints, and dramatic accessories. In perfumery, this period saw the waning of the restrained florals of the postwar era and a move toward more assertive, sensuous scents—ambery orientals, green florals, and perfumes that conveyed confidence and individuality.
For the modern woman of 1968, Estée Super would have been interpreted as an empowering luxury—bold, elegant, and enduring. It offered the refinement of a classic floral, but with a richness and stamina that matched the dynamic energy of the times. Classified as a sweet floral with aldehydic top notes, a lush, sweet floral heart, and a sensual, powdery-woody base, Estée Super was not merely fashionable; it was aspirational. It stood out from the lighter colognes of earlier decades and aligned with the growing demand for longer-lasting, more complex fragrances that could accompany a woman throughout her busy day—and into the night.
Unlike many fragrances of the late 1960s that followed trends or leaned heavily into youth-oriented marketing, Estée Super exuded timelessness and strength. Its use of aldehydes lent it a shimmering lift at the top, while its sweet florals grounded it in femininity, and the woody, powdery base gave it both warmth and authority. In its bold concentration, long wear, and rich formula, Estée Super was truly a product of its time—but also ahead of it. It wasn’t just a perfume; it was a statement of identity, perseverance, and poise.
The official launch of Estée by Estée Lauder was a carefully orchestrated event, designed to highlight the fragrance’s exclusivity and importance within the brand’s portfolio. It debuted at Saks Fifth Avenue, one of the most prestigious luxury department stores in the United States, ten days before being made available at other retailers. This early release strategy underscored the fragrance’s elite positioning and allowed it to make a strong first impression among discerning customers and fragrance connoisseurs. Following its Saks debut, Estée appeared on the shelves of other high-end department stores, including John Wanamaker in Philadelphia, signaling its broader commercial rollout while still maintaining an air of sophistication and desirability. This type of staggered launch was typical of premium beauty releases during the era and served to build anticipation and demand among consumers.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Estee Super by Estee Lauder is classified as a sweet floral fragrance for women. It begins with an aldehydic top, followed by a sweet floral heart, resting on a sensual, powdery woody base. Classic, spicy, green floral with warm, woody notes. A unique multi-floral blend including rose, muguet, jasmine, blending with coriander, orris and ylang on a background of mossy and woody notes.
- Top notes: aldehyde complex, raspberry accord, peach accord, citrus oils, Russian coriander, Calabrian bergamot, honeysuckle
- Middle notes: Portuguese tuberose, lily of the valley, hydroxycitronellal, Bulgarian rose absolute, Grasse jasmine absolute, gardenia, Indian carnation, Nossi-be ylang ylang oil, Provencal honey, Florentine orris
- Base notes: Omani frankincense, Atlas cedar, Tonkin musk, Mysore sandalwood, Sumatran styrax, Tyrolean oakmoss, Java vetiver
Scent Profile:
From the very first breath, Estée Super by Estée Lauder unveils itself with a luminous aldehydic brilliance—effervescent, airy, and sharp like the first glint of morning sunlight on a mirror. These aldehydes—likely C-10 (decanal), C-11 (undecylenic aldehyde), and C-12 MNA (methyl undecanal)—provide a clean, soapy, and fizzy texture that instantly evokes freshness and sophistication. Their function is more than decorative; they push the composition upward, expanding the sillage and allowing the fragrance to project with remarkable radiance. They also serve to lift and illuminate the fruit and citrus notes that follow. The peach accord is juicy and velvet-skinned, while the raspberry glimmers with a tart sparkle, softened by the roundness of the aldehydes. These fruits are not syrupy but nuanced, layered with the zest of citrus oils—possibly a blend of Amalfi lemon, sweet orange, and bitter petitgrain—that mingle with the sharp, peppery snap of Russian coriander. The coriander's slightly camphoraceous, woody profile lends a green, aromatic sophistication. Then, Calabrian bergamot, the gold of southern Italy, lends its uniquely floral-citrus essence—less acidic than lemon, more elegant than orange—with a soft astringency that completes the dazzling introduction.
As the scent settles into its heart, it becomes unmistakably feminine, plush with a symphony of florals so dense and layered they feel like embroidered silk. Portuguese tuberose blooms first—creamy, narcotic, and indolic, but less buttery than its Indian counterpart, with a more restrained greenness. Paired with the soft chime of lily of the valley, it adds a breath of spring air, delicate yet persistent. Hydroxycitronellal, a synthetic compound designed to evoke lily of the valley and muguet, enriches this bouquet, adding a dewy green freshness and soft floral body. It enhances without overwhelming, providing volume and longevity. The Bulgarian rose absolute—deep, honeyed, with a touch of pepper—is layered over the Grasse jasmine absolute, which carries its unmistakable narcotic, warm, and slightly animalic tone. Jasmine from Grasse is prized for its balance of floralcy and hay-like warmth, and here, it binds the composition together with grace.
A touch of Indian carnation brings spicy clove-like nuances, while the Nossi-Bé ylang ylang oil from the island off Madagascar adds a banana-tinged richness and oily floral depth. Ylang ylang from this specific region is revered for its high ester content, making it rounder and more opulent than other sources. A drop of Provençal honey lends a golden warmth—sun-drenched, subtly floral, and faintly animalic—wrapping the bouquet in sunlight. The Florentine orris, among the rarest and most luxurious notes in perfumery, offers a buttery, powdery facet with hints of violet and suede, grounding the florals in a soft, velvety base.
The drydown of Estée Super is where its namesake ambition becomes evident. As the florals fade into memory, the base emerges—dark, warm, sensual, and profoundly comforting. Omani frankincense imparts a silvery-resinous clarity—smoky, balsamic, with a sacred dryness that evokes polished wood and incense. This is not a heavy-handed church incense, but rather the refined, sparkling kind used in high-grade perfumery, distilled from the resinous tears of the Boswellia sacra tree. Atlas cedar, sourced from the Moroccan mountains, contributes a dry, pencil-shaving-like woodiness that lends backbone and structure.
Tonkin musk, originally derived from the musk deer but now reinterpreted through ethical synthetics, hums beneath it all—warm, skin-like, and animalic, with a whisper of something intimate. Mysore sandalwood, now nearly extinct in natural form and replaced by carefully curated sustainable sources, offers a creamy, milky smoothness. It’s sacred in India, used in temples and meditation, and in this fragrance, it exudes tranquility and elegance. Sumatran styrax, with its smoky, leathery balsamic warmth, complements the sweet resins, while Tyrolean oakmoss—moss harvested from the Alpine forests—adds an earthy, forest-floor greenness, slightly bitter and deeply grounding.
Altogether, Estée Super is not simply a perfume—it’s an olfactory tapestry woven with botanical riches and lab-borne ingenuity. It moves fluidly from sparkling aldehydes to lush florals and into a resinous, sensual base, leaving a trail that is unmistakably luxurious and enduring. Each ingredient, whether natural or synthetic, plays a precise role, enhancing the others, extending longevity, and deepening complexity. The result is a fragrance of stature and presence—"super" not just in name, but in every layered nuance.
Bottles:
A special flacon was created for the parfum, it was a clear glass small purse bottle covered with silver lattice and topped by a silver filigree cap. This little bottle was small enough to fit inside the purse and was made in France by Pochet et du Courval. The bottle was also used by other perfumers, mainly La Castillerie in France since the 1960s.
Product Line:
The Estée Super product line offered a rich, layered experience of the fragrance, carefully adapted across concentrations and formats to suit different occasions, application styles, and personal preferences. From the richest parfum to the lightest cologne, each version offered a distinct interpretation of the signature sweet, green floral-woody profile of Estée Super, showcasing different facets of the perfume’s complex structure.
Parfum (Perfume) Concentrations
The parfum offerings—available in 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, and 1 oz splash bottles, as well as a refillable 3/10 oz purse spray and a charming silver filigree mini—were the most concentrated and luxurious expressions of Estée Super. These versions revealed the deepest character of the fragrance, rich with natural absolutes and resins. In the parfum, the heart of Bulgarian rose, Grasse jasmine, and Portuguese tuberose would unfold with lush density, softened by creamy Mysore sandalwood and warmed by the balsamic base of Omani frankincense and Sumatran styrax. The aldehydes were softer, more refined, and less effervescent here, allowing the florals and base notes to take center stage. Worn close to the skin, the parfum left an opulent, sensual trail that lingered for hours, evolving intimately and gradually.
Perfume Spray & Pure Fragrance Spray
The 2 oz Perfume Spray and the later 1.85 oz Pure Fragrance Spray introduced in 1976 offered a more radiant and diffusive take on the fragrance. These versions had slightly lower concentrations than parfum, which made the aldehydic sparkle and citrus oils more prominent. Compared to the denser parfum, the spray versions felt more airy and expansive, perfect for all-day wear or for those who preferred a less intimate expression. The aldehydes opened brighter, and the floral heart was more transparent, letting the green aspects of lily of the valley and ylang ylang shine through. The Pure Fragrance Spray in particular became a staple format for Estée Lauder, continuing across other lines like Youth-Dew, Aliage, and Private Collection.
Daytime Fragrance Splash & Spray
Introduced in 1976, the Daytime Fragrance came in splash (2 oz and 4 oz) and spray (1 3/4 oz) formats. This version was deliberately reformulated as a lighter, brighter variation of the classic Estée scent, offering a more delicate interpretation suited to casual or warm-weather wear. The emphasis here was on the airy, green floral notes and citrus sparkle, with aldehydes and bergamot playing a more dominant role. The base was softened—less musky, less resinous—and the overall effect was clean, softly powdery, and gently floral. The Daytime versions still retained the elegance of the original, but in a much fresher, more subdued guise.
Cologne Concentrations
The cologne range, available as 1/2 oz purse spray, 2 oz spray, and 2 oz and 4 oz splash, represented the most sheer and brisk versions of Estée Super. These were ideal for liberal application, especially in hot climates or for layering. In these versions, the top notes were most dominant—aldehydes, citrus oils, and the herbal snap of Russian coriander came forward immediately. The florals were more ghostlike, present but less plush, and the woody-powdery base receded into a soft whisper. These versions were crisp, brisk, and sparkling, emphasizing the green and spicy aspects of the composition.
Solid Perfume
The solid perfume format offered a compact, portable way to enjoy Estée Super, with a waxy base that preserved the richness of the florals and resins, though with less projection. The warmth of the skin would gradually release the heart and base notes, making it an intimate and long-wearing version ideal for touch-ups or discreet wear. The florals and orris were more pronounced, while the aldehydes were muted, resulting in a creamy, cozy wear experience.
Bath and Body Ancillaries
From 1970, Estée Lauder expanded the Estée line into a complete bath ritual, each product beautifully packaged to reflect the refined luxury of the brand. The 8 oz Perfumed Body Cream, presented in a marine-blue glass globe with a silver cap, delivered a rich, emollient texture and a well-balanced version of the scent—less aldehydic, with emphasis on the creamy florals and warm base notes. It softened the skin while leaving a gentle veil of perfume.
The Bath Powders—both the 3 1/2 oz pouf powder and the 9 oz body powder—offered a silkier, more diffused scent. The powder was housed in a charming blue box with a puff mitt for sensual application. These versions emphasized the powdery and woody base—orris, oakmoss, and sandalwood—with a faint trail of floral softness, leaving the skin delicately scented and matte.
Bath and cleansing products such as the 7 oz Milk Bath, Bath Crystals, Perfumed Spray Powder (6 oz), and blue molded bath soap provided the fragrance in its most diluted, ephemeral form. These products focused on freshness, with citrus, aldehydes, and light florals rising above the bath steam or softened into the creamy soap lather. These formats were ideal for layering with the richer concentrations, building the scent’s longevity and sillage throughout the day.
Perfumed Bath Oils
The 1/2 oz and 1 oz Perfumed Bath Oils offered a decadent bathing experience. These were highly scented, and the warm water would release the full complexity of the fragrance, allowing one to bathe in the aldehydes, honeyed florals, and glowing woods. These versions often emphasized the balsamic and musk elements in the drydown, leaving a lingering, skin-like scent after the bath.
Guest Soap & Decorative Touches
The guest soap, like the full-size bath soap, was molded into a distinctive stylized cube, easy to grip and beautifully presented—adding a decorative as well as aromatic presence to any vanity or powder room. The scent was subtler but still elegant, with the soap accentuating the clean aldehydic and floral elements.
Together, the Estée Super line offered a complete olfactory wardrobe—parfum for sensual evenings, daytime spray for fresh mornings, bath and body products for immersive rituals, and cologne for casual moments. The genius of the line lay in its ability to present the same fragrance in varying degrees of intensity and mood, each format highlighting different notes and textures, making Estée Super not just a perfume, but a way of life.
In 1984/1985, Estee was available in the following formats:
- Presentations: Parfum
- Related Products: Eau de Parfum
- Ancillary Products: Soaps; Body Lotion; Solid Perfume
In 1990/1991, Estee was available in the following formats:
- Presentations: Pure fragrance (1 size); Super perfume (1 size)
- Related Products: Supercologne (3 sizes)
- Ancillary Products: Soaps; Body Lotion; Body creme; Foaming Beauty Bath; Body Powder
No comments:
Post a Comment